I get this question a lot: Why do I do Swiss meringue over Italian meringue?
First, what’s the difference? Swiss meringue is made by cooking egg whites and sugar to 160 degrees, whipping it into a meringue, then adding butter.
Italian meringue is made by cooking sugar and water to 240 degrees, then slowly pouring it into raw, soft peak egg whites, letting it whip into a stiff meringue, then adding butter.
I do Swiss. The short answer is: I think it’s easier. The sugar and eggs cook together, they whip at one time, then you add butter. Easy. The only way you can do it wrong is to overcook your eggs, but that only happens if you don’t keep your mixture moving in the bowl or if your mixing bowl is sitting in the boiling water and not on the boiling water. It is a rare day that I mess up a batch of Swiss meringue buttercream.
I’ve done my fair share of messing up Italian meringue. Not overcooking your sugar syrup requires a good thermometer and for you to babysit your pot. It also takes a while. Then, once it gets to temperature you need to get it into your whipping egg whites as fast as possible. But if you pour it in too fast, or the syrup hits the whirling whisk, or you take too long, that hot sugar cools and crystallizes, so you get a buttercream with bits of sugar crystals. I don’t know how others pull it off, but every time I’ve ever made it I get cooled sugar syrup all over my whisk, bowl, and counter, making clean-up a pain. Stuff like that just does not happen when you make Swiss.
I’ve seen lots of people say, “I use Italian Meringue Buttercream because it’s more stable”. ”It pipes better”. ”It lasts longer”. ”It’s more firm”. ”It’s different”. Huh.
As I get busier and busier, I am making larger and larger quantities of buttercream. I actually don’t know how large of a bowl I use (does 20 quart sound right?), but the largest batch of buttercream I’ve made at one time was about 25 pounds. I do this by cooking my eggs and sugar in a large metal mixing bowl then transferring it to the huge Hobart bowl to whip away. But I though, how easy would this be if I just had a little 6 or 8 quart saucepan of sugar syrup I had to run across the kitchen instead of this massive mixing bowl with about 10 pounds of HOT eggs and sugar? That is when I decided that I might need to switch from my world famous Swiss meringue recipe over to an Italian meringue recipe. I’m all about easy.
I want to mention that Ben Ron-Isreal uses Swiss Meringue Buttercream exclusively at his cake studio. That says something to me.
Anyway, I had some left-over cake that I I thought would be perfect to practice on. I decided to make Warren Brown’s Italian Meringue recipe, which lots of people claim is the best. It has simple enough ratios: 5 oz. egg whites, 10 ounces sugar, 1/4 cup water, 1 lb butter. But I wondered, if I did the exact same ratios but prepared them in the Swiss method (omitting the water), would I get the same buttercream?
Quick answer: YES. I’m going to melt some people’s minds right now. I saw, felt and tasted absolutely zero difference between Swiss and Italian meringue buttercream made with the same ratios. None. Zip. Zilch. Nada. It was identical in flavor and texture. I have a super refined palate at this point and I could detect nothing making one different from the other, so I don’t believe for a second that anyone in a billion years would be able to tell some difference between the two that I missed. I piped with it. I smoothed it. I spackeled it. I chilled it. I brought it back to room temperature. I let that cake sit on my counter for 5 days and nothing changed. It is the Exact. Same. Buttercream. I even had a control, a batch of Swiss buttercream that I made using my ratios (6.25 oz egg whites, 7 oz. sugar, 1 lb butter). My Swiss buttercream was a little more fluffy, lighter in color and not as sweet (makes sense, I have more eggs which make it more fluffy and lighter, and I use less sugar). Mine piped the same, smoothed the same, and overall performed exactly the same as Warren Brown’s ratios.
Maybe there is some science making Italian “more stable”, ”pipe better”, “last longer”, be “more firm”, or make it “different”, but I couldn’t find it in practice. Interesting, huh?

No Difference to me!







